Reaching the summit on Mount Olympus by Nikos Nesi
The year 2013 marked the centennial anniversary of the first successful ascent of Mytikas, the highest peak on Mount Olympus. It was achieved by Christos Kakalos on 2nd August 1913, and has been recorded here by Nikos Nesi, in his book entitled “Olympus“.
In July 1913, the Swiss Frederic Boissonnas, photographer and publisher and Daniel Baud-Bovy author decided to explore Olympus, thus fulfilling an old dream. On July 28 arriving in Litochoro, coming by boat from Thessaloniki (as was customary at the time) and after they get their mountain guide Christos Kakalos Hunter wild goats begin the next day for the Monastery of St. Dionysios is arriving at noon. After a while the old path uphill and evening camp site in Petrostougka (1980 m).
On July 30, pass from the dark and after crossing the “neck”, arrive at the Plateau of the Muses today, they call “Meadow of the Gods” (2600 m.) On the same day climb to the tops Prophet Elias (2803 m) and Tuba (2801 m), explore the base of the wreath and crest is called “Throne of Zeus”.
Descend from the plateau steep screes something and reach close to the “Cabin” (1962 m), the current shelter near Paliokaliva Dear Sp. Camping Where to realise who the “road” to the highest peak. Shortly afterwards descend the glen of Mafrolongou and then end the night at the Monastery of St. Dionysius. On July 31 decided to attempt the climb to the highest peak. They turn back and camp Prionia where all night suffering from a terrible storm. The next day the Mafrolongo uphill and reach the hut, where they stay overnight. On August 2 even before dawn, start with fog, hail, windstorm and climb, rather than directly Zonaria and reach a narrow ridge. Then climbed into the mist, with Chris Kakalos barefoot in front and two Swiss and bound with rope, climb a peak, thinking they are the tallest, it is called “Top of Victory.” The Swiss left there under a pile of stones, a card with a few words in a bottle. The bottle found after 14 years, was sent to Switzerland and is currently the offices of the Greek Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. Eventually the heavy mist opens and see a higher peak and understand their mistake. Frustrated descend the steep peak now called “Tarpiia Stone” and again descend vertically and slippery rocks. Chris Kakalos with lowered head, silent, down the steep ridge. In front of the “vertical runway” leading to the highest peak. Upper? Asks. Swiss to beckon yes. No other reason leaves Kakalos photographic paraphernalia and stubbornly climbing in smooth and dangerous rocks followed by two Swiss and a little at the top.
So, on Aug. 2, 2013, at 10.25 am Mytikas conquered the highest peak in Greece!
From the book “Olympus” by Nikos Nesi
